The drive isnt bad, but the State Park fee will get you everytime. Im seriously considering just getting a year pass... anyway. Oh, what board did I ride?... a BIG thanks goes to Bird at South Coast Surfshops, for letting me ride the 68' Hanson 50/50. This has been my second consecutive year on it, and amazingly enough, that board has helped me bring home several trophies. I was excited to ride this board again.
When we arrived, I wasnt sure the conditions were going to hold up.
Luckly for us, there was AWESOME swell all day! The groms ripped it up on the old boards. Its fun to see them get stoked on old shapes.
I made it through my first heat, then on to the semi-final heat. I was getting warmed up, and that is just an awesome wave to ride an old board on. I made it through and was in the finals!
What a heat! there was some great surfers in the finals heat. There was a total of 6 of us, and all are great surfers! In the end, I was super stoked to take home the win.
Thanks to the DLSA for always making me feel welcome. Your a great Surf Team!!
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